When I travel, I love to meet people with passion. Their spirit sparks my interest and inspires me to learn. In Morocco I met two such people, both riad owners.
In Fez I met Hisham, who owns Riad Rcif. Before you read any further, look at the photos on the link just provided. Riad Rcif is spectactular, a museum-quality accommodation, and the pictures will tell you why words can’t describe it. While you’re looking, keep in mind that it costs just over a hundred dollars per night. Looks like double or triple that, right?
Rcif offers the loving care of a family business. Hisham owns it, his mother cooks the meals, and his other brothers manage and assist, always at your beck and call. Originally planned as a museum, this 1372 riad was to show medina life through the centuries. But then Hisham thought, why not let people stay here and learn even more. It was built for the Pasha of Fez (governor) and subsequently owned by various merchants, the last a highly successful Jewish merchant. Near Hisham’s childhood home, the property was in disrepair when he bought it, and he spent six years to painstakingly restore it.
Having just come from Alhambra in Granada, I was already enamored with thirteenth century Moorish architecture, and I felt so privileged to be able to see it up close and actually live in it, and even more privileged to spend a quiet evening listening to Hisham’s stories and eating his mother’s Moroccan salad and chicken. (NB: a single “salad” makes a delicious meal for two people.)
Riad Andalla in Marrakech offers a completely different experience. It is a smaller, more average riad, and though most guests were middle-aged like us, we really expected to see backpackers. The selling point is the location and the owner, Christophe, a Frenchman passionate about Marrakech.
Located in a narrow passageway a few twists and turns from the noisy square, you can watch the action and hear the drumming from Andalla’s rooftop, but not have it in your face—and your room—all night long. The rooms are basic, and the doors do not lock, but as Christophe says, “You will never be so safe.”
Christophe loves his life in Morocco and makes each guest excited to be there. He sits down and helps each guest tailor the stay to special interests. We like food, hammams and gardens, so he directed us to the best of each. Take his advice, you can’t go wrong. We were especially glad to be directed to Majorelle Gardens, owned by Yves Saint-Laurent until his death. Not only is it an exquisite display of desert plants from around the world, but if offers a fascinating exhibit about Bedoins and lots of information about the French designer, himself.
The riad experience is way more like staying at someone’s home than at a hotel. (If you don't like stairs, stay where there are first-floor accommodations, like Rcif.) During meals in the courtyard or on the rooftop, you make friends with guests from all over the world, and you get incredible personal attention from very interesting owners, generous about sharing their passions.
- Nancy Adair nancyadair2002@yahoo.com
Click here to read more of Nancy's posts.
Comments